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General | Final Walkthrough | Radon FAQs | Mold FAQs
Home Inspection FAQs
Why Do I Need A Home Inspection ?
The purchase of a home is probably the largest single investment you will ever make. You should learn as much as you can about the condition of the property and the need for any major repairs before you buy, so that you can minimize unpleasant surprises and difficulties afterwards. Of course, a home inspection also points out the positive aspects of a home, as well as the maintenance that will be necessary to keep it in good shape. After the inspection, you will have a much clearer understanding of the house you are about to purchase.
When Do I Call The Home Inspector?
A home inspector is typically contacted right after the contract or purchase agreement has been signed, and is often available within a few days. However, before you sign, be sure that there is an inspection clause in the sales contract, making your final purchase obligation contingent upon the findings of a professional home inspection. This clause should specify the terms to which both the buyer and seller are obligated.
Would you like to make your home more desirable to potential buyers? Have it inspected! Our Seller’s inspection program enables Real Estate Agent’s to create a “Hot Link” at their web site listing that will take a prospective buyer straight to the home inspection report with no diversions. Any defects or problems discovered through the Buyer’s inspection will most likely cause renegotiation, inflated repair estimates, and increased anxiety. A pro-active Seller’s inspection will virtually eliminate all the hassles a Buyer’s inspection may cause. If any significant damage or defects are discovered, your listing Agent can discuss them with you and determine an appropriate course of action. This will allow you time to shop around for the best price to repair or correct any identified problem areas. Knowing what defects, if any, are present at the initial listing creates enormous benefits. If repairs are made after the initial inspection, J.B. Anderson Inspections will perform a follow-up inspection, clean up the initial report and upload the revised report to your web listing. When a Buyer is intrigued about a home they are looking at, a main reservation is the condition of the home. Seeing the report and home warranty right then, may produce a phone call for more info instead of clicking to the next ad. It’s a great sales tool! And if your home needs some repairs, then why not fix them now on your terms and not the Buyers. After all, it is still your home.
Can A Home Fail An Inspection?
No. A professional home inspection is an examination of the current condition of your prospective home. It is not an appraisal, which determines market value, or a municipal inspection, which verifies local code compliance. A home inspector, therefore, will not pass or fail a house, but rather describe its physical condition and indicate in their opinion what may need major repair or replacement.
Can't I Do It Myself?
For the most accurate information, it is best to obtain an impartial third-party opinion by an expert in the field of home inspection.
Cost? Is It Worth It?
The inspection fee for a typical one-family house varies geographically, as does the cost of housing. Similarly, within a given area, the inspection fee may vary depending upon the size of the house, particular features of the house, its age, and possible additional services, such as septic, well or radon testing. It is a good idea to check local prices on your own. However, do not let cost be the primary factor in in the selection of you home inspector. The knowledge gained from an inspection is well worth the cost, and the lowest-priced inspector is NOT necessarily a bargain. The inspector’s qualifications, including experience, training, and professional affiliations, should be the most important consideration.
What Does It Include?
The standard home inspector’s report will review the condition of the home’s heating system, central air conditioning system (temperature permitting), interior plumbing and electrical systems; the roof, attic, and visible insulation; walls, ceilings, floors, windows and doors; the foundation, basement, and visible structure.
Do I Have To Be There?
It is not necessary for you to be present for the inspection, but we encourage clients to attend whenever. You will be able to observe the inspector and ask questions directly, as you learn about the condition of the home, how its systems work, and how to maintain it. You will also find the written report easier to understand if you’ve seen the property first-hand through the inspector’s eyes.
What If The Report Reveals Problems?
No house is perfect. If the inspector identifies problems, it doesn’t necessarily mean you shouldn’t buy the house, only that you will know in advance what to expect. A seller may adjust the purchase price or make repairs if major problems are found. Your real estate professional can help you determine what is the best course of action.
How Long Will The Inspection Take?
Generally, A single-family home inspection will last about 2 ½ to 3 hours.
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The Final Walkthrough
Why should I do a final walk through prior to closing?
Your final walk through inspection, just prior to the closing, is a vital component of the home purchase…Here’s why.
A home inspection is a visual inspection of the structural and mechanical components. A furnished home presents certain problems for an inspection because all areas typically are not visible, such as the floors due to furnishings or floor coverings (vinyl, tile, area rugs, etc.); interior of drawers, closets, and cabinets due to storage; walls due to furnishings and wall hangings; etc. Furnishings, storage, and use of electric outlets typically prevent the testing of every electric outlet. Furnishings, storage, and window coverings typically prevent access, inspection, and/or testing of every window from the interior.
Here’s what typically happens with occupied and fully furnished residences. Since the residence is being lived in and systems are being used on a daily basis, it is possible that something will be damaged or fail during the escrow period and during the move-out/move-in process. Homeowners rarely damage something during escrow and file a claim against their homeowner’s insurance policy because, hey, it’s not even their home anymore. You own it. Why should they fix something that belongs to you? Additionally, many people, when moving in or out, have “moving parties” or move out or in hurriedly so they don’t have to take too much time off from work or use up vacation days or sick leave to move. These are when most post-inspection damage occurs, and usually it is by the guests (or movers) helping the owner (seller or buyer) move, so the owner may not even know anything about the damage. In both these instances, sellers like to say, “Your home inspector must not have seen that.” Buyers like to say, “Our home inspector missed that.”
Here’s what we know, though: Windows and window screens, and door and door screens, are easily damaged and/or dislodged during the escrow period and during the move-out/move-in process. Screens present and in good condition at time of inspection could be missing or damaged by the time Client is completely moved in. Doors and windows present and in good condition at time of inspection could be damaged or not working properly by the time Client is completely moved in. Because of the location of water supply and drainage pipes, typically in sink cabinets, where we start cramming things immediately upon move-in, they are easily damaged during the escrow period and during the move-out/move-in process, possibly causing loose pipes and leaks. Lights, wall switches, and outlets (electrical, telephone, and cable) get a lot of use during the escrow period, during the move-out/move-in process, and for that “final party,” “first party,” or “housewarming,” and thus are easily damaged. Lights, switches, and outlets that were working and in good condition at time of inspection could be damaged or not working by the time Client is completely moved in.
So how do you remedy all this post-inspection damage? We believe that is the purpose of your final walk-through, not only to make sure that any requested items have been repaired, but to make sure that additional damage, deterioration, and destruction beyond normal wear and tear has not occurred. We recommend a careful, slow, and thorough observation at your final walk-through to ensure your satisfaction.
A vacant and unfurnished home presents its own types of problems. Although we can see virtually everything, residences that are vacant for any period of time can be expected to present problems upon move-in. Some structural and mechanical components and systems that have not been used on a daily basis can be expected to fail upon first use. A home is meant to be used, meaning that a fully functioning home requires proper use, care, and maintenance. When a residence is vacant, there is no one to do regular monitoring and maintenance. Think about the “haunted house” in your neighborhood or city when you were growing up. It was vacant and dilapidated, and deterioration was continuing on a daily basis because no one was around to take care of it. Same thing with any vacant residence, new or used. Deterioration is an ongoing process; it does not quit simply because a residence is vacant. We recommend that, during the escrow period, you compile a list of qualified service personnel (plumber, electrician, appliance repair, etc.) and telephone numbers to assist you in the event of any emergency during the move-in process.
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Important Facts about Mold
Defining Mold The presence of mold, water damage, or musty odors should be addressed immediately. In all instances, any source(s) of water must be stopped and the extent of water damage determined. Water damaged materials should be dried and repaired. Environmental sampling is then recommended to determine the type and extent of the existing mold. Mold is a structural, health and environmental problem. some mold defects can't be seen and will only be detected through sampling.
Stachybotrys This mold is a slow growing fungus. It grows well on high cellulose materials like straw, grass, saw dust, lumber and drywall plaster board or ceiling tiles. Like a fungi, it requires a moisture source. About15 species of Stachybotrys can be found worldwide, but it is most common in the Western U.S. Generally, this mold grows where the relative humidity is above 55 percent or the material is water-saturated. In studies conducted in North America, Stachybotrys was found in 2 to 3 percent of home environments sampled. Disease - Stachybotrys atra spores are breathed into the lungs. Persons with chronic exposure to the toxin report cold or flu-like symptoms with sore throat, diarrhea, headaches, fatigue, dermatitis, intermittent local hair loss and general malaise. The toxins may also suppress the immune system. Infants may be particularly susceptible to the effects of these inhaled mycotoxins because their lungs are growing very rapidly. Mycotoxins are lipid-soluble and are readily absorbed by the intestinal lining, airways, and skin. How to Control Stachybotrys - Homes and buildings with water damage should be repaired, the source of moisture eliminated, and all moldy material should be removed. Reduce humidity in the home with adequate venting of appliances such as dryer vents, bathroom and kitchen cooking vents, etc. Even "excessively sealed" homes with inadequate air exchange can cause high humidity inside from showers, cooking, laundry, etc. Although some molds can be killed by cleaning the moldy surface with chlorine, Stachybotrys often has a germ, mycelium, that is buried inside the water damaged surface that may be inaccessible to chlorine. It is best to remove all of the water damaged material.
Aspergillus A group of molds which is found everywhere world-wide, especially in the autumn and winter in the Northern hemisphere. Only a few of these molds can cause illness in humans and animals. Most people are naturally immune and do not develop disease caused by Aspergillus. However, when disease does occur, it takes several forms.
- Disease - The type of diseases caused by Aspergillus are varied, ranging from an allergy -type illness to life-threatening generalized infections. Diseases caused by Aspergillus are called aspergillosis. The severity of aspergillosis is determined by various factors but one of the most important is the state of the immune system of the person.
- Allergic Bronchopulmonary Aspergillosis (ABPA) - This is a condition which produces an allergy to the spores of the Aspergillus moulds. It is quite common in asthmatics; up to 20% of asthmatics might get this at some time during their lives.
- Aspergilloma - The type of diseases caused by Aspergillus are varied, ranging from an allergy-type illness to life-threatening generalized infections. Diseases caused by Aspergillus are called aspergillosis. The severity of aspergillosis is determined by various factors but one of the most important is the state of the immune system of the person.
- Aspergillus Sinusitis - The type of diseases caused by Aspergillus are varied, ranging from an allergy -type illness to life-threatening generalized infections. Diseases caused by Aspergillus are called aspergillosis. The severity of aspergillosis is determined by various factors but one of the most important is the state of the immune system of the person.
- Invasive Aspergillosis - The type of diseases caused by Aspergillus are varied, ranging from an allergy -type illness to life-threatening generalized infections. Diseases caused by Aspergillus are called aspergillosis. The severity of aspergillosis is determined by various factors but one of the most important is the state of the immune system of the person.
Penicillium Some Penicillium species are fairly common indoor fungi, even in clean environments. This particular specie of fungi can proliferate in abundance in indoor environments. Penicillium species can be found at the sub-basement levels offices and rooms, in libraries, auditorium, storage room of paper materials and also in ventilation systems. Some Penicillium species can produce small, nondescript conidia and complex mixtures of metabolites that are more or less toxic.
Like all other molds, spores have the highest concentrations of mycotoxin, although the vegetative portion of the mold, the mycelium, can also contain the poison.
Disease - Exposure to the various penicillium toxin can result in the following ill health effects:
- Patulin, a toxin from Penicillium expansum: cytotoxic and/or carcinogenic
- Citrinin, a toxin from Penicillium citrinum, - expansum & - viridicatum: nephrotoxic
- Ochratoxin, a toxin from Penicillium cyclopium & -viridicatum: nephrotoxic
Poria Two major differences between poria and ordinary decay fungi are that ordinary decay fungi require the structure to provide the water (green wood, rain and plumbing leaks, condensation), while poria provides its own water through rhizomorphs connected to moist soil outside the structure, and poria dies quickly when deprived of water, while ordinary decay fungi usually just go dormant. These differences make both the detection and control of poria very different from those of ordinary decay fungi. An inspector who does not accurately diagnose poria infection can make a company responsible for repairing extensive decay, including that already repaired, within less than one year; or, in the extreme, raising and rebuilding the entire structure.
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Important Facts about Radon
MYTH: There is no such thing as radon. FACT: Radon is a naturally-occurring element (atomic number 86, atomic weight 222, symbol RN). It is the heaviest of the noble gases. In its natural state, radon is a radioactive gas.
MYTH: Scientists aren’t sure radon is really a problem. FACT: Although some scientists dispute the precise number of deaths due to radon, all major health organizations agree that radon causes thousands of preventable lung cancer deaths every year. This is especially true among smokers, since the risk to smokers is much greater than to non-smokers. Among these major health organizations are:
- American Lung Association
- American Cancer Society
- American Medical Association
- National Academy of Sciences
- U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
- Office of the U.S. Surgeon General
MYTH: Low level exposure to radon is harmless. FACT: Scientists agree that no level of exposure to radiation is harmless. Human exposure to radiation should be avoided whenever possible. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends that all homes with radon levels of 4 picoCuries per liter or greater be fixed to reduce exposure to radon.
MYTH: Radon testing is difficult, time-consuming and expensive. FACT: An inspector places a test canister inside the home for a minumum of 72 hours and then returns to send the canister to a certified lab for analysis. Results are generally available within 3-5 business days. The testing fee is a small price to pay for your assurance that this hazardous gas does not exist. Long term “Alpha” type tests are also available and provide an accurate long term analysis. Alpha type tests should be conducted for a minimum of 3 months.
MYTH: Radon test kits are not reliable. FACT: EPA listed radon test kits are very reliable. They can detect radon as low as 1/10 of the EPA’s recommended action level of 4.0 picoCuries/liter.
MYTH: Only houses (single-family dwellings) need to be tested for radon. FACT: All homes, including apartments below the 3rd floor, and manufactured (mobile) homes with permanent foundations, should be tested for radon.
MYTH: Some or all homes with radon problems can’t be fixed. FACT: There are solutions to every radon problem in a home. Thousands of homeowners have already fixed radon problems in their homes. Radon levels can be readily lowered for about $500 to $2500, depending on the situation. This is similar to other household repairs such as a new water heater or new roof. There are no homes with radon problems that cannot have their radon levels significantly reduced.
MYTH: Radon only affects certain types of homes. FACT: House construction can affect radon levels. However, radon can be a problem in homes of all types: old homes, new homes, drafty homes, insulated homes, and homes with or without basements.
MYTH: Radon is only a problem in certain parts of the country. FACT: High radon levels have been found in every state.
MYTH: Radon is not a problem in Minnesota. FACT: The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) delinates 3 zones for radon potential. Zone 1 is the highest potential and Zone 3 the lowest. Anoka County has a Zone 2 classification, Medium. Every other County in the Metro area has a Zone 1 classification, High. There are no areas in the State of Minnesota classified as Zone 3, Low. One in 3 Minnesota homes has radon levels which exceed the EPA guideline for radon exposure.
Where Can I Get More Information About Radon?
For more information about radon or other indoor air pollutants, contact the following:
- Ramsey County Radon Hotline
651.773-4483 (24-hour recorded message)
- Saint Paul - Ramsey County Department of Public Health
Environmental Health Section - 651.773.4466
- Minnesota Department of Health
Division of Environmental Health - 612.215.0909
- American Lung Association of Minnesota
651.227.8014
- U.S. Department of the Interior / U.S. Geological Survey
The Geology of Radon www.sedwww.cr.usgs.gov:8080/radon/georadon.html
- Radon Resistant New Construction www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/construc.html
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